Frequently Asked Questions

The TurnLock™ Base Plate has been engineered to fit nearly any router with little additional effort. However, it is impossible to create a base plate that fits all router models that have ever been manufactured without some modification during the initial installation. If you are having a difficult time in finding a set of slots and holes to match with your router, it is important to remember two things:

• 1. It is only necessary to have 2 holes in the Base Plate align with the holes in the router sub base for a secure installation

• 2. The Base Plate is constructed of a durable poly carbonate material that can be modified with a drill, file, or rotary tool to provide a proper fit with your router.

View the latest Router Mounting Key, or the latest European Router Mounting Key to see if the Base Plate lines up with the holes in your router.

Watch a video demonstrating the installation of a Base Plate onto a router. This process is also shown in several of our videos featuring TurnLock™ Products.

While it is best to use the screws that were originally provided with the router, we have included 2 sets of screws with every Base Plate. The black (fine thread) and zinc (coarse thread) pan-head screws will fit most popular routers on the market. If our mounting screws do not fit your router, check your local hardware store for a set that fits, or contact us and we may be able to help you find the right set. In searching for the appropriate screws, DO NOT use "counter sink head" style screws. Pan-head screws do not have tapered shoulders and allow you to make small adjustments while aligning the holes in the Base Plate to the router sub base.

There is a known issue with finding the correct screws for installation on most Ryobi routers. The screws that come with these routers appear to have been designed for use when attaching the router to a router table and have large rounded heads which will not install flush with the bottom of the Base Plate. In our research, we were unable to find any screws commercially available that will work in this application, so we developed a special set of screws. We have made them available through Customer Service and will send them to you at no additional charge.

TurnLock™ Guide Bushings are injected molded and designed for a snug fit. Upon first use, you will commonly find the fit to be somewhat tight. If this is the case, work the bushing back and forth in the Base Plate to 'seat' and 'work fit' the bushing.

There is a post from Bob on Router Forums that describes a jig he built to help 'work fit' new bushings. Pliers will also work in a pinch.

To view a complete list of currently available TurnLock™ Guide Bushings, CLICK HERE

If you wish to replace a particular bushing, obtain the part number from the bushing and contact Milescraft Customer Service to order.
Complete Bushing Sets are also available at many of our retail outlets. Be sure to phone ahead to be sure your local retailer has TurnLock™ Bushing Sets in stock.

There is a 'Top Hat' bushing adapter available which allows you to convert 1 3/16" metal bushings into TurnLock™ quick change bushings. It is available in several of our Base Plate and Bushing Sets. If you would prefer to order just the 'Top Hat' adapters, please contact Milescraft Customer Service to order item number 30050.

Metal Nose bushings are now available for improved durability. We recommend them for anyone who uses our guide bushings on a regular basis. They are available in our 1216 Metal Nose Bushing Set or 1211 Base Plate / Metal Nose Bushing Set at a variety of retail outlets. They are also available individually from Milescraft Customer Service
To see what is available and obtain the correct part number, please view the complete list of available guide bushings.

Circles and arcs from 10" to 51" in diameter can be cut with this product

Contact Milescraft Customer Service to order part number 30073 Pivot Guide

The optimal router for our sign making, design, and inlay templates is a plunge router with a 1 1/4 to 2 1/4 HP rating, with a 1 1/2 inch minimum plunge distance.

Replacement letter and number sets are available from a variety of retail outlets. Be sure to phone ahead to ensure your local retailer carries this product in stock, or order from one of our online vendors listed on the Sign Making Templates product page.

At this time we only manufacture the standard 1 1/2" and 2 1/2" number and letter sets that come with the Sign Crafter and Sign Pro. We are unaware of any other manufacturers that carry differnt templates that will work with our system.
If you are interested in increasing your sign making capabilities, you may want to consider our 3D Pantograph, which can rout nearly any font or line drawing you can print on 8.5" x 11" paper and includes 5 different fonts and several line drawings.

For your sign making needs, we recommend a Long Reach Router Bit with an overall length of 2 3/8". Core Box router bits yield the best results. Use a 1/4" router bit with the 1 1/2" templates and a 3/8" router bit with the 2 1/2" templates. A 1/2" router bit can be used with the 2 1/2" templates for a bolder letter.
The Sign Pro comes with both the 1/4" and 3/8" router bits. The Sign Crafter comes only with the more popular 3/8" router bit to help keep the cost of the product down. Contact Milescraft Customer Service if you wish to order the 1/4" bit or the Sign Crafter Upgrade Kit.
For the Design / Inlay Kit, we recommend a 1/4" V-Groove bit for designs and the 1/8" Downcut Spiral bit. Both of these bits are included with the product.

This PDF provides a head to head comparison of the improvements that were made to the Sign Pro. If you received your Sign Crafter as a gift, or were unaware of the differences between the two products when you chose the Sign Crafter, you can order a Sign Crafter Upgrade Kit from Milescraft Customer Service

These support bridges prevent the rails from sagging under the weight of the router. They also help keep the rails together to prevent templates from falling out as you rout your sign. As you rout your sign, you can move the bridges out of the way between routing letters.

There are a variety of methods for providing more stability to your sign making jig. You can clamp the end frames to the work piece and work bench, use the pre-drilled screw holes to mount the jig directly to your work surface, use strong 2 sided tape to hold the end frames to the work piece, or you can use the included support bridges as yet another surface to clamp down on.

We recommend routing your letters onto an unfinished work piece and cutting it to size after all the letters have been routed. However, this can sometimes be impractical. In a situation where the board is already cut smaller than the 18" rails, we recommend the use of a 'block up' jig:

• 1. Gather extra pieces of wood the same thickness as your work piece.

• 2. Place your work piece on the work surface and 'block' it in with the extra pieces in a way that will prevent the work piece from moving while routing.

• 3. Fasten down the extra block-in pieces with clamps or fasteners.

• 4. Place the sign making jig over the top of the block in jig so the letters you want to carve are correctly positioned above the work piece.

• 5. Clamp or fasten the sign making jig in place and carve the letters.

A good example of a 'block up' jig in use is shown at WoosterWoodworker

Another option for making signs smaller than 18" is to cut the metal rails that came with the sign maker with a hacksaw. If needed, extra rails can be purchased from Milescraft Customer Service.

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We certainly have routed our share of signs over the years. Click Here to read a description of the method we have found that works best for us.